Cicchetti in Venice: What They Are and Where to Try Them
Venice has the unfortunate (and somewhat undeserved) reputation of being one of the few cities in Italy with an overpriced and underwhelming dining scene. But this doesn’t have to be the case.
“Walking in Venice, you will often run into a group of Venetians saying: “Andemo bèver un ombra?” (“Let’s go and drink a shade.”),” says Monica Cesarato, author of Andar Per Bàcari, an Italian-language cicchetti guide and cookbook. “Follow them and you will see them enter a bar and order little glasses of wine and a selection of nibbles.”
So, take a cue from the locals and make a meal out of cicchetti, the Venetian bar snacks that won’t break the bank.
What are cicchetti?
Venice’s take on Spanish tapas, these small plates—known as cicheti in Venetian—range from simple finger foods such as marinated olives or vegetable tempura to mini portions of more elaborate fish or meat dishes. Served in Venice’s tiny traditional bars (called bàcari), “the right time to try ciccheti is just before noon and in the evenings between 6pm and 8pm, when everything comes out of the kitchen nice and fresh, in a continuous stream,” says Cesarato.
Choose a selection of cicchetti from the overflowing platters in the display case and wash them down with a small glass of wine—or an ombra in Venetian—ordering just enough to whet the appetite for your upcoming meal or going back for more to satisfy your hunger completely.
Related article: Top Tips for Finding Authentic Spanish Tapas in Barcelona
The history of cicchetti
Like many of Italy’s culinary traditions, the origins of cicchetti (also spelled cichetti) have been lost over time. “It is a centuries long tradition, typical of the city of Venice,” according to Cesarato. “The name cicchetti comes from the Latin ciccus, meaning ‘a small amount’.”
Ombra, meanwhile, has a deeply local origin. “The word was born in St. Mark’s Square, Venice’s historic market place,” explains Cesarato. “People loved to stand in the square to talk, but chatting under the sun made them thirsty so the market’s wine sellers began to offer small glasses of wine from their stalls. To keep the wine cool in the summer, these wine sellers would move their stands around the square’s bell tower during the day to stay in its shade. Hence the name ombra, or ‘shade’.”
How to order cicchetti like a local
Enter the bàcaro bar (there is never table service for cicchetti) and choose from the selection displayed at the counter. You can order your favorites individually or leave it up to the server by simply requesting an assortment. Most bàcari are pocket-sized establishments with just a few tables, so you’ll have to be very lucky to find seating. Instead, enjoy your nibbles standing among the chatting happy-hour crowd inside or spilling out into the street along the canal.
If you find a bàcaro with a great cicchetti spread, linger for a second (or third) round and make a meal out of the offerings there. Otherwise, do as the Venetians do and make it a moveable feast, strolling between bàcari and sampling the top cicchetti at each. A giro d’ombra (cicchetti crawl) is a great way to combine dining, sightseeing, and local culture.
Top cicchetti to try
Cicchetti is an umbrella term that includes a wide variety of snacks and dishes, and many bàcari have their own house specialties. However, there are a number of classics that you’ll find in most spreads:
Fritti: Deep-fried delicacies are one of the most common types of cicchetti. Try breaded and fried mini mozzarella balls and arancini (small balls of rice and ground meat), or crowd-pleasing vegetable or seafood tempura.
Crostini: Another popular cicchetti variety, crostini are slices of bread (sometimes toasted) featuring an endless variety of toppings. You’ll find meat or fish paté; cheeses and charcuterie; or interesting combinations such as hard-boiled egg and anchovies, caprino (goat cheese) and marinated porcini mushrooms, or gorgonzola with honey and walnuts.
Meat: Venice is set directly on the Adriatic Sea, so traditional cicchetti lean more towards fish and seafood specialties than meat, but there are a few carne classics. Search out polpette (small meatballs), rumegal (veal stomach), and fegato alla veneziana (liver topped with onion and parsley).
Fish: Fish and seafood cicchetti are the most traditional and beloved. Sarde in soar (marinated sardines and onions tossed with raisins and pine nuts), baccalà mantecato (creamed cod served over a square of polenta), baccalà vicentina (a crostino spread made of cod, anchovies, and onions), and moscardini (tiny octopus) and polenta are musts in any bàcaro worth its salt.
Salads: Larger cicchetti spreads include a variety of vegetarian or meat and fish combinations, including marinated green beans and sweet peppers; peas with pancetta, onions, and ground pepper; anchovies with marinated onions; and octopus and potato salad.
What to drink with cicchetti
Cicchetti are customarily paired with an ombra, or small glass of house red or white wine from the surrounding Veneto region. Most bàcari also offer higher-end wines by the glass, listed on a board near the bar. Otherwise, opt for Prosecco (a sparkling white wine produced in the hills just north of the city), a Spritz cocktail (soda, Prosecco, Aperol or Campari, and a twist of orange), or a small beer.
The price of cicchetti (and where to sample the best)
Cicchetti are either charged by the piece (each costing generally between €2 and €5) or by assortment (a €10 plate, for example). Some establishments require payment for each round, especially when it’s very busy, while others keep a running tab that you settle as you leave. An ombra or beer usually costs around €3, though a finer wine by the glass can cost up to €10.
There are a number of popular bàcari located across the Floating City and they’re hard to miss, thanks to their buzzy crowds that fill the sidewalk outside. Cesarato recommends these top options for authentic cicchetti:
- Al Timon (Fondamenta degli Ormesini) in the Jewish Ghetto.
- Al Portego (San Lio) in Castello.
- The two El Sbarlefo outposts, one on Salizada del Pistor in Cannaregio and the other on Calle San Pantalon in Dorsoduro.
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Rebecca’s first visit to Italy was a coup de foudre and her affection for Il Bel Paese has only grown over almost 30 years of living here, during which time she has mastered the art of navigating the sampietrini cobblestones in heels but has yet to come away from a plate of bucatini all’amatriciana with an unsullied blouse. She covers Italy travel, culture, and cuisine for a number of print and online publications.